Alaska Roads, Oil Rigs & the Arctic Circle

We have ridden around 1,000 miles north from Anchorage to Deadhorse, Alaska, chiefly to go for a chilly dip in the Arctic Ocean. Deadhorse is the most northerly settlement of Alaska reachable by land transport. The 400-mile dirt road that runs up here only exists to service the huge Prudhoe Bay oil exploration area, and the pipeline that runs south to Valdez.

On the way, we crossed into the Arctic Circle, i.e. into latitudes where the sun doesn’t set during the summer time. Scores of caribou and foxes dot the landscape. Rolling vistas with towering rocky peaks as far as the eye can see.

Alaska Oil Pipeline

Alaska Oil Pipeline

We are staying in what is basically an Atco Trailer in a giant oil terminal at the end of the world, but it’s very hospitable indeed. Hairy oil workers are asking us about the bikes and the trip, and are impressed by the scale of our ride. Glad I’ve had my haircut, though.

So, this is where it really starts, and it’s obviously downhill all the way from here back to Anchorage, so no major problems expected.

Killian Ashland

Discover Alaska Mountian Ranges

Immediately east of Anchorage is the Chugach Mountains. The first ridge that overlooks the city has peaks to about 3500 feet; head deeper into the mountains and the peaks get taller, and eventually you reach the glaciers of the Chugach Mountains.

Chugach Range behind Anchorage

Chugach Range behind Anchorage

About this time of year, we’ll get a rainy, foggy day, and when we get up the next morning, the tops of the peaks will have a fresh coating of snow. Alaskans call this “termination dust”, which is a reference to the end of summer. Termination dust comes and goes several times in late August and September, before the snows settle in here at sea level, usually on a Saturday morning, when we have some outdoor chore, or even worse, a fishing trip planned. The phenomenon is the same in other parts of the state. In Fairbanks, the White Mountains just north and northeast of town will gather a mantle of snow a few weeks before the snows reach the floor of the Tanana Valley.

Termanation Dust

Termanation Dust

In Denali National Park, the situation is a little different. The mountains there are quite a bit taller, and most of the park, including the area along the park road is around the 3000 to 4000 feet, so when there’s termination dust on the Chugach Mountains, there’s snow on the park road in Denali. This is an important thing to remember when you’re out in the elements in Alaska; especially in the fall, but in fact, it is important anytime. When it is raining on you, it is snowing just a few thousand feet above your head, and in Alaska, a nice sunny day can become rainy very quickly, and an unexpected heavy shower might have a few hailstones, then a few more, then a few flakes of snow, and before you know it, you have a cold, wet mess.

I was on a moose-hunting trip a few years back. We traveled by boat for about 15 miles, and we spent the better part of the month of September at our camp. We hunted the last day of the season. It was a beautiful fall day, with temperatures in the low 50’s. We went into our tents that night, ready to break camp and go home the next day. I woke up around 7 AM, and I heard some dripping on the tent. I was eager to make some coffee and some breakfast, so I started to get dressed and go to our campfire and get the fire started. I unzipped my tent, and was greeted by the sight of six inches of snow.

I made my coffee, and we broke camp, and rode in the boat for 15 miles in the cold and miserable snow all the way back to town.

Any day now, the Chugach Mountains will get another coating of snow, and Alaskans will moan and complain about how summer was short, and winter is coming. The truth is, winter comes when it wants to come, and summer is really just on loan to us, and we’re going to have to pay that loan back… Any day now.

Roger Clement

Fairbanks and Barrow Alaska New Tours

Alaska Denali Tours

Alaska Denali Tours

Alaska Denali Tours is booking some fabulous new tours for the 2010 Summer Season.

Coldfoot Alaska optional tours:

1. Weisman Visit: Visit a historic gold mining community and learn of it’s dynamic past and present.

2. Koyukuk River Float: Enjoy a three-hour leisurely float down the Middle Fork Koyukuk River.

3. Brooks Mountain Range Safari (added only with Brooks Range Adventure):

This is a ground tour north into the Brooks Mountain Range on the Dalton Highway.

4. Anaktuvuk Pass Adventure: Scenic flight over the gates of the Arctic National Park to the Nunamiut Eskimo village of Anaktuvuk Pass

These options maybe added to the following adventures: Arctic Circle Brooks Range Adventure® And the Arctic Ocean Adventure

Barrow Adventure – Overnight Tour “An overnight journey by air to the farthest north Eskimo village.”

Fly north from Fairbanks across the Arctic Circle to the Inupiat Eskimo village of Barrow. Receive an official Arctic Circle Certificate. Discover firsthand lifestyles of Alaska’s Arctic Coastal peoples with a tour of the village. Meet the Inupiat people while enjoying a cultural program featuring ceremonial song and dance, traditional games, and demonstration of local crafts. Walk the shores of the Arctic Ocean near the northernmost point on the North American Continent. Bravely dip your toe in the frigid waters of the Arctic Ocean. Overnight in Barrow at the Top of the World Hotel (included). Depart Barrow on an evening return flight to Fairbanks.

The Gates of the Arctic National Park

The vast cathedral opened before us. Massive crags glowing pink from alpenglow; a gasping glow of a soft, setting sun. It was our greatest trip, that mid July. It was our greatest dream, that one sunset.

It was July the Seventeenth, Oh-Nine. It was Anaktuvuk Pass, Alaska. We flew here in a small plane from Fairbanks; bumping and rolling to pure solitude. We planned this day for an eternity; the first sunset in this National Park. My wife and I climbed a nearby ridgeline; the wind whipped and burned, but we bore onward. The orange pink glow enveloped us at nine. The dreamlike alpine tundra urged us on; by half past, we were in place—at the top.

My wife opened a rare, red, fruitlike wine. We watched the sun’s orange orb slowly descend; it clung to our heavens for one last moment—a blast of red sunset piercing our world, and, with a whisper, arctic night began; the first moment without sun for two months.

We waited in solemn meditation; eyes glued to the stretching horizon. It was mere minutes before day began. We relished that first night, no matter how brief; the Arctic wind could not pierce our pure joy, sitting in silence in the Brooks Range peaks, at the craggy Gates of the Arctic Park.

Jacob B.

Three Times to Northern Alaska and Counting

this is why it takes so long to get anywhere in Alaska...just have to look!

Rest stop or photo stop?

I’d traveled to Prudhoe Bay (Deadhorse) and through northern Alaska twice before and spoken highly of its natural, rugged beauty. This is probably why my brother insisted we head north during his last visit to Alaska in June.

We packed up the truck with the usual camping equipment and started north from Anchorage to our first overnight destination, Fairbanks. Finding a camping spot just north of Fairbanks was easy and free. There are many small turnout areas and we simply set-up camp in one of these.

The second day found us winding our way through the northern interior on the Dalton Highway (also known as the Haul Road) to the Bureau of Land Management campground at Marion Creek. It’s a beautiful campground with toilets, fresh water, picnic tables and BBQ pits.

The third and final day of driving was the best. It was on this day we passed through my favorite part of all of Alaska – the Brooks Range, over the Continental Divide, and through the winding, treeless expanse of the North Slope. It was during this phase of our journey that I actually saw my first Grizzly Bear. June is the calving season and I can only surmise this Grizzly was shadowing the herd waiting for an opportunity to claim an easy meal. Talk about something straight out of a nature program on television!

I’ve been to far northern Alaska three times now and I have to say the third time was the best. Then again, perhaps the next time will be even better.